Katz Orange, a Bohemian Brasserie in Berlin

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Berlin is a special place for many reasons. We go for the art or we go for the history, or we go with the hopes of feeling just a bit more free. Of all the many reasons that people travel to Berlin I rarely hear that they’re going for the food, because unlike most of the other great European cities, first-rate food has never been its forte. That’s changing. One example is Katz Orange.

 

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Situated in the courtyard of a 19th century former brewery in Mitte, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to change everything in your apartment. Stunning color woven into Peruvian rugs and pillows, the warm wood tones mixed with metal, leather, and brick. It’s a common enough configuration these days, and yet it’s done so well, with such careful carelessness that we don’t mind falling in love with it all over again.

Style aside, the food is delicious. I tried their signature slow-roasted pork, for which the kitchen uses only the choicest cut of organic pork neck. It is cooked sous vide for 12 hours and then placed under a salamander broiler to create a crunchy caramelized crust. Superb.

 

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Ludwig Cramer-Klett, the half-Swiss, half-Bavarian owner, says that he wants to offer dishes that reflect conscious thinking, whether it’s about eating meat from “happy pigs” or vegan dishes. “We don’t want to dictate what is the right way to eat, we just want to show the different ways. But most important is that it’s all delicious.” A wise resolution, especially at a time when folks are increasingly (hyper)conscious about what they eat, and when the word “guilty” in our guilty pleasures has possibly never felt so true. With superior cuisine and exquisite design you’ll often find a higher than normal price tag, at least for Berlin. Here, an average meal for two, without drinks or tip, is about 90 euros. I think worth the splurge.

Katz Orange
Bergstrasse 22, Berlin Mitte

 

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